Septic tank filters help ensure solids don’t escape your septic tank, improving wastewater quality while prolonging drainfield lifespan. An economical yet easy installation in the second compartment, they are an affordable form of protection.
A septic tank connects to its drain field (also called leach field) through an underground pipe using watertight seals. This transports sewage directly into the soil where natural filtering takes place through unsaturated soil.
Inlet and Outlet Tees
A sanitary tank baffle is often installed at both the inlet and outlet ports of septic tanks or other on-site waste disposal systems to act as housing for an effluent filter. A typical baffle consists of two halves that fit together to form a generally cylindrical hollow opening at either port, with an optional tee cap covering its top – this safeguard prevents solid debris from flowing into and out of the septic tank from blocking it up!
Tee baffles serve to direct sewage to the bottom of septic tank 14 so as to not flood into its inlet port and disturb its sediment layer, thus allowing sediment to settle out in time to mix with incoming wastewater, thus avoiding an unattractive slurry-like discharge from its outlet or inlet port.
Although health-related regulations differ by county, in general tee baffles for both inlet and outlet ports of septic tanks must extend at least 12 inches below the bottom edge of their water level to ensure they don’t come too close to sludge or floating scum layers; doing this also prevents these layers from blocking off access to their port port ports, potentially clogging absorption field drainfields.
Most septic tanks feature standard pipe tees as their inlet and outlet ports; typically 4″ or 6″ pipe fittings available at plumbing supply stores. To convert this tee into a baffle, simply insert two 22.5 degree elbows before and after it to bring its top closer to tank water level – as depicted by Mr. Waters in the photo on the left. These replacement parts may also be used to replace damaged or lost concrete septic tank baffles.
Sludge Layer
Most of us use toilets, drain their dishwashers and take showers without giving much thought to where their sewage and water go. Luckily, the septic tank system provides an automatic separation process that keeps raw sewage out of absorption fields; solids that cannot be digested float to the top as scum while those that cannot are sent down to be digested as sludge at the bottom of the tank and must be periodically pumped out in order to prevent clogging up of absorption fields and blocking their absorption fields from becoming overwhelmed with solids that cannot digested scum while those which cannot digested remain at either ends causing issues in absorption field and absorption field system clogging up of absorption field and blocking it up completely.
Septic tanks should consist of three distinct layers; scum layer, clarified effluent layer and sludge layer. The top scum layer contains soap residue, detergent solids, cooking oil solids and other light materials – not exceeding one inch thickness.
As the scum layer decomposes, microorganisms break it down into smaller particles that can be carried away via liquid effluent. A clear fluid should emerge with no large suspended solids present; any unbreakable particles remain trapped in the middle layer where they could potentially end up entering soil absorption systems prematurely and cause costly repairs.
Filters installed at the inlet baffle or tee can reduce this problem by providing extra treatment and filtering of wastewater before it leaves the septic tank, thus limiting how much solid waste enters into absorption fields.
There are multiple methods for measuring scum and sludge layer thickness, including using an infrared sensor; however, one of the easiest and most practical is with a stick. Simply drop one end of a 3-inch wooden stick down into your manhole until it rests on top of a scum mat, force back upward until resistance is felt, mark this spot, then repeat until all layers have been measured accurately.
Septic tank inlet and outlet tees must be located near the bottom of the sludge layer to prevent solids from being flushed out into an absorption field and clogging it, decreasing capacity and lifespan.
Filter Media
If you own a septic tank system, you will require some form of filter to separate large particles from the effluent, thus avoiding clogging drain fields, pumps and sprinklers and saving on replacement costs over time while helping preserve your soakaway.
Effluent filters are constructed of porous materials that permit water to pass through but trap solid waste, such as filter pads or multiple-layered devices with built-in gas deflectors that increase their filtering efficiency. They may be placed inside of or adjacent to a septic tank at its outlet tee for septic tanks, and outside for graywater filtering systems.
Mechanical filtration uses foam or sponge pads with pores of different sizes to physically strain out waste, filtering out large debris such as fish poop, dead leaves and other large items that might enter the home through its drain system. Foam pads with coarse pores work great for this purpose as they can be squeezed out and reused many times over without needing replacement as often.
Chemical filtration removes microscopic impurities from water, and when combined with mechanical filtration can yield even better results. Chemical media used include activated carbon, zeolite and peat; all three help improve water quality while eliminating toxins from our environment. It is advised to utilize a coarser mechanical filter before undertaking chemical or biological filtration to ensure any fine waste doesn’t clog the media prematurely.
Multi-media filters refer to any combination of media used to remove additional impurities and toxins from water, including gravel used to filter sediment out, resins that remove tannins or catalytic carbon that reduces chloramine levels, etc. Multi-media filtration is often combined with biological filtration so bacteria have an open environment to work on and don’t become clogged and stop working properly.
Maintenance
Septic tank systems offer homeowners who live in rural areas an eco-friendly alternative to public sewer, enabling them to live further from cities than possible with public sewer. But they require regular inspection and maintenance; signs that indicate it needs attention include foul odors from plumbing fixtures, slow draining or water backing up into sinks or toilets. Furthermore, your septic tank should be pumped out at least every three to five years for best performance.
Solid waste from homes flows directly into a septic tank where it is decomposed by bacteria. Heavy solids sink to the bottom while wastewater floats to the top, then is sent through pipes buried underground to an absorption field or lateral field for further filtering through soil and grass before eventually returning back into circulation.
Over time, solids may accumulate in a septic tank and raise its float switch to such an extent that it interferes with pump operation, eventually leading to overflow into drainfield and eventually system failure. To prevent this scenario from arising, your septic tank should feature a filter which will capture solids before they enter drainfields.
Septic tanks should feature both an input baffle to block debris from entering, and an outlet baffle that channels wastewater directly towards drainfield or absorption fields without overflow.
Septic tank filters can help safeguard drain fields against failing, shortening their time to be replaced, and reduce overall maintenance costs. They’re easy to install into the second compartment of any septic tank, with horizontal filtration slots specifically designed to trap solids before they enter drain fields.
